Luxury timepieces from Rolex are experiencing a surge in demand on the secondary market, driven by soaring gold prices and collectors’ growing preference for ornate models. According to the Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index, which tracks the top 50 most-traded watches by transaction value, three Rolex models have seen the most significant jumps in ranking since the index launched in 2022.
The yellow-gold Day-Date Ref. 228238—previously owned by British singer Zayn Malik—climbed the fastest, rising from 30th to ninth place in just three years. Close behind, the bi-metal Datejust Ref. 16233 advanced by 19 spots, while the yellow-gold Day-Date Ref. 18038 gained 17 positions.
Rolex Dominates Secondary Watch Market
Rolex continues to dominate the pre-owned luxury watch sector, with iconic models like the Daytona and GMT-Master consistently ranking at the top of the Subdial Watch Index. After hitting a post-pandemic low two months ago, the index has rebounded by 3.3%, Bloomberg reported.
Rising Gold Prices Lead to Higher Retail Costs
Earlier this year, Rolex increased prices on its gold models, reflecting the metal’s escalating market value. The Deepsea model, for instance, rose 11.33% from 58,000 in January 2025. Similarly, the Everose gold Day-Date 40 Ref. 228235 and Sky-Dweller Ref. 336935 saw price hikes of 11.57% and 9.26%, respectively, pushing their retail prices to 57,800—a nearly $5,000 increase for each.
Gold prices have surged nearly 40% since 2024, with bullion exceeding $3,100 per ounce in early 2025—a 10% increase this year alone. Additionally, former President Donald Trump’s 32% tariff on Swiss exports could further drive up costs for luxury watches in the U.S. market.
Experts Predict Continued Growth in Watch Collecting
Industry analysts suggest that high-end timepieces, particularly limited editions, will remain a strong investment. Collectors are advised to secure early releases, such as the anticipated Land-Dweller, as initial production runs often command premium resale values. Given Rolex’s enduring appeal and gold’s upward trajectory, prices may only continue to climb.
