Square watches, once considered niche and unconventional, are now firmly back in the spotlight. Prestigious watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Tag Heuer are spearheading this revival, offering bold designs that challenge the traditional round watch norm. The recent launch of the Patek Philippe Cubitus collection marks a milestone in this resurgence, but the trend has been quietly gaining momentum over several years. From Cartier’s timeless Santos to Hublot’s avant-garde Square Bang Unico, here are the standout square watches capturing the attention of collectors and enthusiasts today.
Cartier: The Santos-Dumont Rewind
Cartier’s Santos line is perhaps the most iconic example of square watches. Last year, the brand introduced the innovative Santos-Dumont Rewind. While it might initially appear to be simply a new burgundy edition, closer examination reveals a fascinating twist: the hour markers run counter-clockwise, and the watch itself operates in reverse. This creative reinterpretation blends tradition with playful innovation, underscoring Cartier’s mastery of watch design.
Hermès: The Distinctive H08
Known more for its luxury leather goods than timepieces, Hermès surprised the watch world with the launch of the H08 in 2021. Featuring a square case with rounded edges, the H08 stands out with its modern yet understated aesthetic. Since its debut, Hermès has expanded the collection to include vibrant colour options such as orange, green, yellow, and blue. Despite being relatively new, the H08 has quickly gained respect among watch experts and has become a favorite among seasoned collectors.
Hublot: The Bold Square Bang Unico
Hublot took a bold step in 2022 with the release of the Square Bang Unico, an evolution of their iconic Big Bang line. Characterized by its disruptive, unconventional shape, the Square Bang Unico stirred mixed reactions. Undeterred, Hublot expanded the line last year with two new 42mm versions in Magic Gold—a proprietary gold alloy known for its durability and brilliance. These additions demonstrate Hublot’s commitment to pushing boundaries in watch design.
Patek Philippe: The Groundbreaking Cubitus
October 2024 saw Patek Philippe’s first new collection in 25 years—the Cubitus. Initially released with three models, including a full steel time and date, a stainless steel and rose gold variant, and a grand date in platinum, the Cubitus is already generating buzz. The stainless steel time and date model (Ref. 5821/1A) is particularly anticipated and viewed as the spiritual successor to the much-coveted Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A, blending heritage with modern sophistication.
Piaget: Honoring Andy Warhol with a Modern Classic
Piaget added a cultural twist to its square watch offerings late last year by renaming one of its lines the Andy Warhol watch, commemorating a partnership with the Andy Warhol Foundation. This rounded square timepiece features a new design with a Clou de Paris pattern on the bezel and a striking blue meteorite dial, reflecting both artistic heritage and refined watchmaking.
Tag Heuer: The Racing Green Monaco
A legendary name in square watches, the Tag Heuer Monaco has stood the test of time for decades. Last year, Tag Heuer unveiled a fresh take on this classic with a titanium case in racing green, departing from the traditional blue look. This version not only looks stunning but is remarkably lightweight, enhancing wearability. The tasteful combination of colours and materials confirms the Monaco’s place as a timeless icon reimagined for today.
Square watches have undeniably shed their underdog status to become symbols of innovation and style. Whether it’s Cartier’s clever mechanics, Hermès’ subtle elegance, Hublot’s boldness, Patek Philippe’s heritage, Piaget’s artistry, or Tag Heuer’s racing legacy, these models illustrate why square watches are a must-watch trend in contemporary horology.
