I’ll admit it upfront—I’m not a watch purist. I don’t believe you should only wear a pilot’s watch while flying or a dive watch while submerged. If I followed that logic, my Speedmaster would stay in the box since I’m not an astronaut. But even I have limits. There’s a line between appreciating a watch’s design and turning a functional tool into a gaudy status symbol.
That line was crossed, spectacularly, at Watches and Wonders 2024. The culprit? Rolex’s latest iteration of the Deepsea—this time, in solid yellow gold.
The Deepsea: A Dive Watch That Defies Its Purpose
Rolex bills the Deepsea as an “extreme diver’s watch,” engineered for those who push the boundaries of underwater exploration. And on paper, it delivers: a helium escape valve, luminous markers for deep-sea visibility, and a staggering 3,900-meter water resistance. But let’s be honest—how many of its wearers will ever test those specs?
At 44mm wide and 17.7mm thick, the steel Deepsea is already a beast. Yet Rolex decided to take it further, crafting a 322-gram gold version (ref. 136668LB) priced at €54,200. Who is this for? When I asked, the answer was vague: “Different markets have different tastes.” Not exactly a ringing endorsement for its practicality among professional divers.
Gold, Glitz, and the John Deere Tractor Effect
Gold dive watches aren’t new. Rolex has made them before—like the 41mm yellow gold Submariner, which, while flashy, at least slips under a cuff. But the gold Deepsea? It’s less a watch and more a statement—one that screams louder than a gilded tractor in a parking garage.
And Rolex isn’t alone. Breitling’s Superocean Automatic 42 in pink gold, Tudor’s Black Bay 58 in solid gold, and even Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon (worn by CEO Marc Hayek while diving) blur the line between tool and trophy.
The Dive Watch’s Identity Crisis
Let’s be clear: there’s nothing wrong with wearing a dive watch as a daily beater. Most divers today rely on computers, not mechanical watches, for underwater safety. But when brands prioritize extravagance over function—like adding tourbillons to dive watches—it begs the question: Who are these timepieces really for?
The gold Deepsea isn’t just a watch; it’s a provocation. And while Rolex’s team couldn’t justify its existence beyond market demand, one thing’s certain: it’s a masterpiece of marketing, if not of practicality.
So, to the collectors who’ll buy it—more power to you. Just don’t pretend it’s for diving. Unless, of course, you’re trying to impress the fish.
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