For vintage Rolex enthusiasts, every detail matters—from the subtle patina of a tropical dial to the precise fade of a bezel. These nuances can elevate a watch’s value by tens of thousands of dollars. David Silver’s latest book, Vintage Rolex: New Edition: The Largest Collection in the World, caters to this obsession, offering an unparalleled visual journey through Rolex’s storied history.
Spanning 432 pages and featuring over 2,100 full-color photographs, the book is a celebration of aesthetics rather than technical minutiae. “It’s all very pictorial,” Silver, co-owner of London’s Vintage Watch Company, told Robb Report. “You can view this book like a Tom Ford fashion book or an interiors design book—the goal is to be seduced by the images.”
A Living Archive of Rolex History
Published to mark the Vintage Watch Company’s 30th anniversary, the $130 tome expands on Silver’s 2020 edition with 300 additional watch images and two new chapters: one dedicated to tropical dials and another exploring Rolex’s collaboration with Tiffany & Co.
What sets the book apart is its origin. Every watch featured has passed through the Vintage Watch Company’s hands, photographed with meticulous consistency—dial at 10 to 2, seconds hand at 25 past. “The detail is exceptional,” Silver said. “This book couldn’t be replicated today without spending hundreds of thousands on photography.”
From Stella Dials to Rare Gems
The 2025 edition’s cover showcases a rare lilac Stella dial Day-Date, a color so uncommon that Silver has encountered only two in three decades. “Purple was too bold for its time,” he noted. “That’s why these dials are so scarce.” Limited-edition covers in mint green and blue will also be released to commemorate the anniversary.
The book traces Rolex’s evolution chronologically, beginning with early pocket watches and diamond-set ladies’ timepieces. “If I told you these were Rolexes, you’d think I was mad,” Silver quipped, referencing a 1920s cocktail watch on a silk strap.
A pivotal chapter highlights the Oyster case, introduced in 1926 and famously worn by Mercedes Gleitze during her English Channel swim. “She didn’t wear it on her wrist—that’s folklore,” Silver clarified. “It hung from a chain around her neck.”
Iconic Models and Unexpected Rarities
The 1950s marked Rolex’s rise as a sports watch powerhouse, with milestones like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona. Silver dedicates a chapter to the Paul Newman Daytona, which fetched $17.8 million at auction in 2017. “That sale put vintage Rolex on the global map,” he said.
Quirky designs also take center stage, from houndstooth dials to gemstone variations in lapis, malachite, and opal. Provenance adds intrigue—like a platinum Day-Date commissioned for Saudi billionaire Adnan Khashoggi, inscribed with his initials.
Tropical Dials and Tiffany’s Legacy
The new chapters delve into tropical dials—color-shifted due to environmental exposure—which Rolex considers defects but collectors prize as unique. “We want it to happen more,” Silver admitted.
The Tiffany chapter celebrates a historic partnership. “It’s one of the greatest collaborations,” Silver said. “The merging of two superbrands on a dial is iconic.”
A Book That Bridges Past and Present
Unlike the 2020 edition, this update offers readers a chance to own featured watches still available at the Vintage Watch Company. “You can buy things live,” Silver teased.
Though deeply immersed in Rolex, Silver draws inspiration beyond horology. “I’m more influenced by fashion and art,” he said, noting the NATO-strap-inspired bookmark ribbon. “This book is about beauty, not just mechanics.”
For collectors and admirers alike, Vintage Rolex: New Edition is more than a reference—it’s a wearable work of art.
Related topics:
- Virgil Abloh’s Off-White x Nike Air Force 1 Is Back With a New Look
- H. Moser & Cie. Teams Up With Alpine Motorsports on New Race-Inspired Streamliner Watches
- Introducing ‘The Wind Up’: Robb Report’s New Vodcast Covering All Things Watches
