Japanese watchmaker Naoya Hida has captivated horology enthusiasts with his latest trio of timepieces, each reflecting his meticulous attention to detail and deep passion for the craft. Known for his approachable yet encyclopedic knowledge of watches, Hida blends technical mastery with an understated elegance that resonates with collectors.
This week, he unveiled three new models: the NH Type 3B-3 with a moon phase, the square-shaped NH Type 5A-1, and the NH Type 6A perpetual calendar. Each watch features Hida’s signature silver dials and hand-engraved numerals, a hallmark of his brand. For the Type 6A—his first serious complication—he opted for sterling silver, a departure from his usual German silver, enhancing its luxurious appeal.
The Art of Hand-Engraving
A defining feature of Hida’s watches is the intricate engraving by master artisan Keisuke Kano, who has dedicated two decades to perfecting his craft. The process is painstakingly slow—each Type 3B-3 dial takes over a day to complete, while the Type 6A requires up to five days due to the precision required for its subdials. Kano works exclusively with Hida, though he humorously admits to frequent overtures from other brands eager for his expertise.
Hida’s obsession with perfection is evident in subtle touches, such as the faint black outline between subdials on the Type 6A, ensuring the Roman numerals beneath remain visible—a detail many makers might overlook. His designs balance traditional Japanese aesthetics with innovative twists, avoiding minimalism in favor of rich, layered craftsmanship.
Unique Materials and Vintage Touches
The Type 3B-3’s moon phase disc features a lapis lazuli night sky instead of the more common aventurine—a choice so challenging that only a limited number can be produced. Each moon bears a distinct face, differing slightly across models. Meanwhile, the Type 5A-1 swaps sapphire for acrylic crystal, crafted with a custom mold to evoke a vintage feel and alter how light interacts with the dial.
Despite the dominance of brands like Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre in rectangular watch designs, Hida embraced the challenge. The immediate demand for a second iteration of the Type 5A-1 suggests his gamble paid off.
How to Secure One
Unlike other luxury watchmakers with years-long waitlists, Hida’s pieces are allocated via lottery. Applications are open on his website until 9 p.m. EST tonight (10 a.m. JST on the 22nd), while The Armoury’s lottery runs through June 15th. For collectors, owning a Naoya Hida watch isn’t just about precision—it’s about possessing a wearable masterpiece.
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