Though far from a watch expert, I’ve had the privilege of working alongside horology specialists at Gear Patrol, including Johnny Brayson, who argues that Ulysse Nardin’s Freak may be the most significant watch of the 21st century. The bold claim is rooted in its radical departure from convention: no traditional hands, dial, or crown. Instead, time is displayed via a rotating disc for hours and a “flying carrousel” as the minute hand.
Debuting in 2001, the Freak made history as the first watch to incorporate silicon in its escapement—a material prized for its resistance to light, heat, and magnetism. This innovation set a new standard in high-end watchmaking. Now, the latest iteration, the Freak [X Gold Enamel], elevates the design further with a Guilloché-Flinqué rotating disc, transforming a technical marvel into a masterpiece of métiers d’art.
Where Futurism Meets Ancient Craftsmanship
The standout feature of this edition is its rotating disc, adorned with a sunray pattern layered in vibrant blue enamel—a technique dating back over 3,000 years to ancient Egypt, China, and Rome. While the Freak remains a beacon of avant-garde horology, its enameling ties it to a tradition that predates Ulysse Nardin itself, founded in 1846.
Enamel’s enduring brilliance makes it a rare and coveted art form, mastered by only a handful of specialists. Among them is Donzé Cadrans, Ulysse Nardin’s dedicated enameling atelier. Acquired by the brand in 2011, the 53-year-old workshop—located just blocks from UN’s manufacture—has been perfecting this craft for decades.
The Painstaking Art of Enameling
Creating the Guilloché-Flinqué disc was no small feat. The 22-carat rose gold base ensures thermal stability during kiln firing, while the intricate sunray pattern demands millimeter precision. Each disc requires eight hours of meticulous work, ensuring no two are identical. With only 120 pieces produced, every Freak [X Gold Enamel] is truly one-of-a-kind.
Designed for Modern Wear
Introduced in 2019, the Freak X series features a slimmer, more wearable profile. This model pairs a blue PVD titanium case (43mm) with rose gold accents, a luminous minute bridge, and a blue alligator strap with rose gold stitching. Its 72-hour power reserve ensures both beauty and functionality.
For those captivated by the Freak’s legacy, this edition is more than a watch—it’s a fusion of engineering brilliance and timeless artistry.
