Three of the most sought-after modern watches will go under the hammer this month in Geneva, offering a crucial measure of collector demand in a fluctuating market. Christie’s and Phillips will auction a yellow gold Rolex Daytona “Le Mans,” a Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Edition in titanium, and Konstantin Chaykin’s ultra-thin “ThinKing” prototype—each representing distinct corners of contemporary horology.
Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” Makes Auction Debut
The spotlight falls on a yellow gold Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” (Ref. 126528LN), a watch never officially listed in Rolex catalogs but famously worn by Roger Federer at the 2024 U.S. Open. Produced as a successor to the short-lived white gold model, this iteration features a black ceramic bezel with a red “100” marker and a display caseback. Its dial nods to the 24-hour Le Mans race with an exotic subdial layout.
Christie’s estimates the piece will fetch between CHF 150,000 and CHF 250,000, noting it was reportedly allocated only to top-tier Rolex clients selected by CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour. A white gold version sold for $228,600 at Phillips last December, setting a benchmark for this rare model.
Simon Brette’s Breakthrough Watch Enters the Market
The Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Edition in titanium marks the auction debut for the independent watchmaker, whose 2023 debut model sold out instantly and won the GPHG Horological Revelation prize. Limited to 60 pieces, this 39mm watch has drawn acclaim for its hand-finishing and movement craftsmanship.
Phillips has set an estimate of 147,000, testing whether Brette’s rising reputation translates to secondary-market demand. The sale parallels the 2023 auction debut of Rexhep Rexhepi’s Chronomètre Contemporain, another indie darling.
Konstantin Chaykin’s Record-Holding Prototype
The Konstantin Chaykin “ThinKing,” unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2024, holds the title of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at just 1.65mm thick. To accommodate its fragility, Chaykin developed a custom strap with titanium-reinforced alligator leather.
Phillips offers the nickel-alloy prototype with an auxiliary titanium case (raising thickness to 5.4mm) and estimates a staggering 858,000. The result could redefine benchmarks for ultra-thin watchmaking beyond established players like Bulgari and Piaget.
A Market Barometer
These auctions will reveal whether collector enthusiasm for modern rarities persists amid economic headwinds. With Rolex’s VIP-exclusive model, Brette’s indie appeal, and Chaykin’s technical feat, Geneva’s salesrooms are set for a telling showdown.
