At Watches & Wonders 2025, Rolex delivered a refined surprise amid the buzz around the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection: the return of the Perpetual 1908, now featuring an exclusive solid gold bracelet. Originally launched in 2023 as a subtle successor to the Cellini line, the Perpetual 1908 elevates classic elegance with the introduction of the “Settimo” bracelet — a meticulously crafted seven-link solid gold design that lends the watch a vintage jewelry bracelet aura.
The Perpetual 1908 collection carries a rich heritage in its name, honoring the year 1908 when founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex name, as well as paying homage to the brand’s first automatic wristwatch with a Perpetual rotor introduced in 1931. Blending traditional elements from the early Oyster Perpetual models of the 1930s—such as Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, baton indices, and a small seconds counter—Rolex shapes a sophisticated continuation of the Cellini’s legacy.
Previously available with classic white and black dials on leather straps, and more recently in a striking platinum version with an icy guilloché dial, the Perpetual 1908’s latest incarnation dazzles with its Settimo bracelet. Constructed from seven rounded, domed, solid yellow gold links arranged in a staggered, articulated fashion, this bracelet echoes the aesthetics of the Jubilee bracelet but in a sleeker, more jewelry-like form. Each mirror-polished link reflects light brilliantly, enhancing the watch’s fluid movement and reinforcing its vintage charm while fitting seamlessly with modern style trends.
The concealed folding Crownclasp stands out as a hallmark of Rolex’s craftsmanship. Discreetly integrated and polished to perfection, the clasp’s design mirrors that of a fine jewelry bracelet, with the iconic five-pronged crown as the only visible marker.
A notable design feature is the deliberate gap between the bracelet and the case, evoking a vintage feel reminiscent of classic dress watches. Unlike integrated bracelets seen on sporty Rolex models, the Settimo’s separation enhances its elegance and comfort, while the weight of solid gold provides a luxurious wrist presence—albeit with a heightened awareness of scratches.
Contrary to the typical flashiness of gold bracelets, the Settimo offers understated sophistication, perfectly complementing the yellow gold case and dial. The dial options remain simple yet elegant: intense white or black, both featuring applied yellow gold Arabic numerals, faceted hour markers, and a peripheral railway minutes track with a recessed small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The faceted, mirror-polished Breguet-style hour hand and sword-shaped minute hand add a refined touch.
The 39mm case is compact and slim (9.50mm thick), with short lugs and delicate fluting on the bezel, crown, and caseback—making it effortlessly suitable for formal wear.
Beneath this vintage-inspired exterior beats the modern automatic calibre 7140, developed specifically for the Perpetual 1908. It is the first Rolex movement visible through an exhibition caseback and features an antimagnetic Syloxi silicon hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, and a Chronergy escapement. The gold Perpetual rotor powers a robust 66-hour reserve.
While the Settimo bracelet’s addition elevates the Perpetual 1908 to a new level of luxury, it also significantly increases the price—retailing at EUR 35,900 compared to EUR 25,300 for the leather strap model. Despite the premium, the Settimo edition stands out as the most accomplished and desirable variant in the Perpetual 1908 line. For enthusiasts who value heritage, craftsmanship, and vintage allure wrapped in modern technology, this watch is a compelling statement piece worthy of the Rolex crown.
