Geneva, Switzerland – Watches & Wonders 2025, the world’s premier horological trade show, has kicked off with a dazzling display of innovation and heritage. Leading watchmakers presented a mix of archival-inspired designs and groundbreaking new creations, proving that the industry continues to push boundaries while honoring its past.
Cartier made headlines with the reintroduction of the Tank à Guichets, marking its first update in two decades. The iconic “digital” Tank, originally launched in 1928, returns with four new iterations—three faithful to the Jazz Age original and one featuring a subtle yet striking deviation: slightly offset hour and minute apertures.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Celebrates Reverso with Mechanical Mastery
Jaeger-LeCoultre paid tribute to its legendary Reverso with a series of technically astounding models. Among them is the Hybris Artistica Calibre 179, showcasing a hand-wound multi-axis tourbillon movement. The brand also drew inspiration from ancient Persian craftsmanship, adorning select limited editions with intricate hand-painted enamel work.
IWC Elevates Pilot’s Watches with Cutting-Edge Materials
IWC, renowned for its aviation-inspired timepieces, introduced five new models, including the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month—a mouthful of a name for a watch that lives up to its ambitious billing. Crafted from black Ceratanium, a patented ceramic-titanium alloy, this high-performance perpetual calendar is operated entirely via the crown, blending robustness with horological sophistication.
A. Lange & Söhne Showcases Ultra-Complicated Masterpiece
A. Lange & Söhne stunned collectors with the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a fusion of two of watchmaking’s most challenging complications. Limited to just 50 pieces in 950 platinum, the watch features a glossy black enamel dial with subsidiary displays for the day, month, leap year, and a gold moonphase.
Powering this masterpiece is the new Calibre L122.2, comprising 640 meticulously crafted parts, including a German silver three-quarter plate and hand-engraved balance cock. The minute repeater, activated by a slide on the case, chimes hours, quarters, and minutes with two harmonized gongs—producing 720 unique sequences in a 12-hour cycle.
A Harmonious Blend of Heritage and Innovation
While critics have long debated whether Swiss watchmakers rely too heavily on archival designs, this year’s Watches & Wonders demonstrates that the industry is striking a perfect balance. Brands are embracing their history while introducing bold, technically advanced creations—proving that horological excellence is timeless.
For collectors and enthusiasts alike, the 2025 showcase reaffirms that the art of watchmaking remains as vibrant and exciting as ever.
Related topics:
- Japanese Watch Brand Credor Unveils a Gérald Genta–Designed Timepiece
- Swiss Watch Exports Surged in April, as the Threat of Higher U.S. Tariffs Loom
- Cartier’s Revived Tank à Guichets Is Making an Old-School Design Feel New Again
