The luxury watch market is witnessing a dramatic shift as collectors increasingly gravitate toward vibrant, gem-set timepieces. Once considered niche, these colorful creations are now commanding attention at auctions and dealer showcases worldwide.
The Rise of the ‘SARU’ Phenomenon
Leading this trend is the Rolex GMT-Master “SARU” Ref. 16758, featuring a dazzling bezel set with blue sapphires and red rubies. High-end dealers like Los Angeles-based The Keystone report unprecedented demand for such pieces, which now dominate their “holy grail” listings over traditional steel sports models.
“We’ve always championed gem-set watches, but now buyers are finally catching up,” says Max Abbott, co-founder of The Keystone. “Eight years ago, these pieces didn’t get the appreciation they deserved. Today, collectors understand their unique appeal.”
Beyond Basic Steel
The shift represents a broader movement in collecting preferences:
- Colorful stone dials from brands like Piaget and Cartier gaining traction
- Rainbow configurations becoming signature pieces for major brands
- Vintage gem-set models from the 1970s-80s seeing renewed interest
Zenith’s recent Chronomaster Sport Rainbow exemplifies the trend, featuring 5.36 carats of baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires on a white gold case. Priced at $112,100, the watch marks the brand’s first full white gold creation with a rainbow bezel.
Why Collectors Are Changing Tastes
Industry experts point to several factors driving the gem-set boom:
“People want to express individuality rather than own the same reference as everyone else,” Abbott observes. The days of chasing ubiquitous steel sports models appear to be giving way to more personal, visually distinctive choices.
Yoni Ben-Yehuda of Material Good predicted this shift, telling Robb Report last December: “2025 will be the year of exotic dials. We’re seeing a renaissance of stone dials that add depth and life to watchmaking.”
As auction results and dealer inventories demonstrate, the watch world’s new colorful direction shows no signs of fading. For serious collectors, gem-set timepieces have evolved from curious oddities to must-have centerpieces of modern collections.
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