This season’s auction catalogs are brimming with distinctive, non-round timepieces, as collectors increasingly seek out bold designs from the 1960s and ’70s. While vintage dress watches have long dominated the market, irregularly shaped models—once a niche category—are now gaining serious traction.
Leading the charge are standout pieces from Cartier, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, and Patek Philippe. These watches, often produced in limited quantities, showcase experimental case shapes—tonneau, cushion, oval, and even “TV-style”—that prioritize striking aesthetics over mechanical complexity.
A Resurgence of Design-First Timepieces
Vintage watch expert James Lamdin of Analog:Shift describes these pieces as “design forward,” emphasizing their sculptural appeal. Unlike traditional dress watches, their allure lies in unconventional silhouettes and innovative materials rather than intricate movements.
The trend aligns with the broader revival of smaller, more elegant watches. Shaped models from this era remain rare, yet their value remains robust—a testament to their enduring appeal among discerning collectors.
Auction Highlights Reflect Growing Demand
Upcoming sales at Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Phillips, Antiquorum, and The 1916 Company feature an array of standout examples. Cartier, the undisputed leader in shaped watches, dominates the offerings, but unexpected entries from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin add intrigue.
These watches share a common philosophy: bold yet refined. Their cases make a statement without resorting to excessive ornamentation or impractical displays. Instead, their power comes from clean, unconventional geometry—proving that a watch can be both avant-garde and timeless.
As the market shifts toward expressive designs, these auctions underscore a pivotal moment for collectors: the rise of the shaped watch as a lasting investment and a wearable work of art.
