Wristwatches, now ubiquitous in modern life, only gained widespread popularity a little over a century ago. While World War I played a pivotal role in popularizing men’s wristwatches, the industry has since evolved far beyond its utilitarian roots. Today, Swiss watchmakers and others craft intricate luxury timepieces with astonishing complications—each innovation standing on the shoulders of historical breakthroughs. Here, we explore the pivotal “firsts” that shaped wristwatch history.
The Foundations of Modern Watchmaking
Switzerland’s dominance in horology wasn’t always assured. In the mid-19th century, American innovation led the charge in mass production. Aaron Dennison of Massachusetts pioneered interchangeable watch parts in the 1850s, though Swiss craftsmanship still surpassed American precision at the time. By the 1890s, spurred by railroad demands, U.S. watchmaking efficiency soared—culminating in Ingersoll’s groundbreaking $1 watch in 1896.
By the wristwatch era, Switzerland had taken the lead in horological advancements. Five nations—the U.S., England, Switzerland, Germany, and Japan—drove most major developments. Below, we highlight the milestones that defined wristwatch history.
The Dawn of Wristwatches: Breguet’s Royal Gift (1812)
While scattered references to “arm watches” date back to the 1500s, the first confirmed wristwatch was crafted by Breguet in 1812 for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples and sister to Napoleon Bonaparte. Breguet’s archives note servicing the piece in 1849 and 1855, though no images of the watch survive.
Men’s Wristwatches Enter the Scene: Girard-Perregaux’s Naval Claim (1880)
Girard-Perregaux asserts it supplied chain-bracelet wristwatches to the German Navy around 1880. However, no photographic evidence or surviving examples corroborate this claim—raising questions about their actual production scale.
The Birth of the Minute Repeater: Audemars Piguet and Omega’s Collaboration (1892)
Minute repeaters, which chime time on demand, rank among watchmaking’s most complex feats. In 1892, Louis Brandt & Frères (later Omega) cased an Audemars Piguet movement to create the first minute repeater wristwatch—a testament to early industry collaboration.
Aviation’s Timekeeper: Cartier’s Santos (1904)
In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont commissioned Louis Cartier to design a wristwatch for flight. The resulting Santos de Cartier became the first pilot’s watch—and Cartier’s claim to the “first wristwatch marketed to men.” Despite early resistance to “wristlets,” the Santos remains iconic today.
Chronographs Take Flight: Longines’ Monopusher (1913)
Longines debuted the first chronograph wristwatch in 1913, powered by its 13.33Z movement. Though a monopusher design (the simplest chronograph type), it marked a pivotal step in wearable precision timing.
Illuminating the Battlefield: Luminous Trench Watches (1914)
The discovery of radium by the Curies in 1898 led to luminous paint by the 1910s. By World War I, radium-coated “trench watches” became essential for soldiers, accelerating wristwatch adoption. Contrary to myths, Panerai did not invent luminous dials—though it patented lume for gun sights. By 1916, British officers’ manuals listed luminous watches as standard gear.
Breitling’s Two-Button Chronograph (1915)
While monopusher chronographs dominated early wristwatches, Gaston Breitling introduced an early two-button design in 1915. Though not definitively the first, it set the stage for modern chronograph ergonomics.
Defying the Elements: The First Waterproof Watch (1918)
Before waterproofing, watches were vulnerable to moisture. Charles Depollier’s 1918 creation—capable of submersion without damage—earned the title of first “waterproof” watch, though depth ratings came later.
Legacy of Innovation
From battlefield necessities to feats of engineering, these milestones transformed wristwatches into both tools and treasures. Each breakthrough reflects the ingenuity that continues to drive horology forward.
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