Blancpain, the pioneer of modern dive watches, has unveiled a striking new iteration of its legendary Fifty Fathoms—now in a more wearable 38mm case. While the brand has historically maintained the model’s size between 42mm and 44mm, this latest release marks a significant shift, aligning with contemporary trends favoring smaller timepieces.
A Luxurious Yet Polarizing Debut
The downsized Fifty Fathoms comes in two opulent variants: a black-and-rose-gold model with a mother-of-pearl dial and a pink-and-white titanium version. Priced nearly double the 42mm steel model introduced earlier this year, the new 38mm edition positions itself as a high-end offering—though Blancpain’s marketing suggests it’s tailored for women.
Despite this gendered framing, the black-and-gold reference, with its 18-karat rose gold case and dive-ready straps, presents a compelling option for any enthusiast, regardless of wrist size. The mother-of-pearl dial, featuring a gradient fade, adds a touch of sophistication without compromising the watch’s rugged heritage.
Precision Engineering in a Compact Form
Powering the 38mm Fifty Fathoms is Blancpain’s in-house Caliber 1153 automatic movement, boasting an impressive 100-hour power reserve. The smaller case required a different engine than recent Fifty Fathoms releases, yet the brand ensures no compromise in performance.
Challenging Outdated Marketing Norms
While Blancpain’s decision to label the 38mm model as women-centric may raise eyebrows, industry trends tell a different story. In 2025, 38mm has become a preferred size for men’s watches, reflecting shifting tastes toward more refined proportions. Luxury brands increasingly market their timepieces as unisex, recognizing that watch preferences transcend traditional gender boundaries.
The black-and-gold variant, in particular, stands out as a masterclass in blending precious materials with functional design. Meanwhile, the pink-and-white titanium model channels the playful spirit of the Swatch collaboration, proving that bold colors can coexist with high horology.
A Hopeful Future for Smaller Fifty Fathoms
While these new references are undeniably stunning, their premium pricing may leave some enthusiasts longing for a more accessible steel version. As the watch world continues to embrace smaller cases, Blancpain’s latest move could signal the beginning of a broader shift—one that finally brings the Fifty Fathoms into step with modern wearability.
