While the Cubitus has its place in horological history, several other square watches have carved out their own legacies. From racing-inspired chronographs to avant-garde complications, these models prove that angular cases can be just as iconic as their round counterparts.
TAG Heuer Monaco: The Rebel of Square Watches
The TAG Heuer Monaco stands as one of the most recognizable square watches ever made. Its sharp angles and bold personality were immortalized by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans. Beyond its Hollywood fame, the Monaco broke barriers as the world’s first automatic square chronograph.
Key design elements include an unconventional left-side crown—showcasing Heuer’s then-new automatic movement—and distinctive pump-style pushers. Over the decades, the Monaco has evolved into a diverse collection, offering everything from classic blue dials with red accents to Gulf racing editions and skeletonized models. Yet, no matter the iteration, its unmistakable silhouette remains unchanged.
Cartier Santos: The Original Square Watch
The Santos de Cartier isn’t just a square watch—it’s the first purpose-built wristwatch in history. Created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, its design prioritized functionality, allowing him to check the time mid-flight without fumbling for a pocket watch.
More than a century later, the Santos remains a Cartier staple. Its square case, exposed bezel screws, and often-integrated bracelet strike a balance between classic and contemporary. Modern versions feature the QuickSwitch system, enabling effortless strap changes. Whether in stainless steel, two-tone, or skeletonized variations, the Santos is a must-have for those embracing square watch aesthetics.
Hermès H08: A Modern Take on Square Design
Launched in 2021, the Hermès H08 blends sportiness with sophistication. Its case features softened edges, sitting somewhere between a cushion and a true square. Crafted from lightweight yet durable materials like titanium, graphene, and ceramic, the H08 is as practical as it is stylish.
The dial showcases Hermès’ signature flair, with a sector layout and bold Arabic numerals. While subdued colorways are available, the collection’s playful side shines through vibrant options, including a sand-colored limited edition collaboration with Hodinkee. For those seeking a square watch that’s both refined and unconventional, the H08 delivers.
Patek Philippe 3587: A Bold Response to the Quartz Crisis
In 1969, Patek Philippe joined a consortium of Swiss brands to develop the Beta 21 quartz movement—a direct answer to the Quartz Crisis. The reference 3587 housed this movement in a hefty 43mm case with rounded corners, straddling the line between square and cushion-shaped.
What truly sets this watch apart is its opulent construction: an 18k gold case (available in yellow or white) paired with an integrated “Swiss Cheese” bracelet. Though quartz watches often face collector skepticism today, the Beta 21 remains a historically significant piece. For those drawn to vintage square watches with pedigree, the 3587 is a standout choice.
Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar: A Complication Masterpiece
The Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is a rare and audacious take on square watchmaking. Limited to just 28 pieces each in rose and white gold, this 2006 model is as exclusive as it is striking.
Measuring 40mm x 40mm, its cambered case and thick bezel command attention. The dial is a symphony of complications: day and month windows at 12 o’clock, a moonphase between 7 and 8, and an arched pointer date display. A leap year indicator at 3 o’clock and oversized Roman numerals complete the bold aesthetic. For collectors seeking a high-complication square watch, few options rival this Roger Dubuis creation.
Choosing the Right Square Watch
Square watches offer a distinct wearing experience compared to round models. Their angular shape can appear more prominent on the wrist, making fit crucial. When trying one on, pay attention to how the corners align with your wrist—dimensions alone don’t tell the full story. Whether drawn to vintage charm or modern innovation, there’s a square watch to suit every taste.
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